Fellow travellers had described Bukhara as being very different from Samarkand and often referred to it to me as their favourite. Even though I hadn’t done as much research — and hadn’t looked at images of Bukhara online before my visit — I knew there must be something special about this Silk Road city.
My arrival in Bukhara was unexpected in more ways than one. Greeted by a wall of heat, I was shocked to notice the difference in temperature compared to Samarkand, which was at a higher elevation. Initially, I thought I had gotten off at the wrong station since this train station appeared to be located in a town called Kogon, nearly 15 km from Bukhara. After a bit of Googling, I realised I was in fact at the right location.
I sweated profusely under a tree as I attempted to get shade from the blistering heat, whilst trying to organise a Yandex (the equivalent and much cheaper version of Uber). One thing I noticed was that the number of taxi drivers approaching arriving passengers, including myself, was quite overwhelming compared to Tashkent and Samarkand.
About 25 minutes later – the longest I had waited for a Yandex during my time in Uzbekistan – I was winding through a maze of narrow lanes lined with beige mudbrick buildings. The landscape felt entirely different from Tashkent and Samarkand; more desert-like, more ancient, and with a distinctly Middle Eastern atmosphere.
As I looked out at the centuries-old architecture and dusty streets, it felt as though I had stepped into another era. If someone had told me I had been transported into the pages of a biblical story, I would have believed them.
Welcome to Bukhara.
About the location
Bukhara is located in the southwest of Uzbekistan, set within a flat, desert-like landscape that feels dramatically different from the greener, more structured streets of Samarkand or even Tashkent.
Because Bukhara sits at a lower elevation, the heat is significantly more intense, especially during spring and summer months, and it can feel almost overwhelming during the middle of the day. But of course, having done no research, this was a surprise.
Unlike other Silk Road cities that feel more spread out, Bukhara’s old town is compact and walkable, with most of the historic sites clustered together. This makes it one of the easiest cities in Uzbekistan to explore on foot, even in extreme heat – but early mornings and evenings quickly become your best friend here.
How to get to Bukhara
Getting to Bukhara was relatively easy and slightly lucky, it seemed. I had once again grabbed one of the last seats when booking last-minute through the Uzbekistan Railways app, just like I had done when booking the train to Samarkand.
Booking months in advance was not my style, since I liked to stay flexible and genuinely didn’t have a plan, and the “winging it” method was working for me so far.
The combination of Yandex and train travel was the go-to option for most other travellers and me. Yandex takes you from your hostel to the train station and vice versa at the other end, while the train is the obvious choice for going between cities. Again, I took the slow, cheaper train, which took around 3 hours, and I arrived around midday – to the intense heat.
The taxi journey was much longer than I anticipated, since I assumed the train station would be closer to the city, and I could only imagine how much a journey like this would cost in Europe. For me, in very affordable Uzbekistan, it cost under 2 euros for this 30-minute trip.
Where to stay in Bukhara
From my experience, what makes a destination great is not always limited to the attractions, history, or food – it is the people you meet and the places you stay.
What was originally a last-minute booking based on location and affordability – my go-to method – quickly turned into the most memorable stay of my three-week trip in Central Asia. Little did I know that the hostel I had chosen – Dervish Hostel – came highly recommended and many travellers were drawn there by word of mouth. I, however, had just been lucky once again.
The hostel was located down one of the many iconic narrow streets, which the Yandex didn’t dare to go down, yet it was just steps from the hustle and bustle of the historic old town. Walking into the hostel via the large wooden doors, which oozed Medieval vibes, I was captivated by the architecture of the place.
Defined by a huge courtyard with ample space for socialising, working or eating – as many were doing when I arrived, Dervish had an indescribable vibe that made me feel instantly at home. I couldn’t help but notice the big smiles from people looking to see who was walking in the door, and I loved this, especially having previously stayed in hostels in Samarkand and Tashkent, where nobody spoke to each other.
The rooms were clean, lockers were provided, and each morning a fresh local breakfast was served – with a large teapot full of Tashkent tea for each person to enjoy.
With the first few minutes of checking in, I had made two friends and was already on my way to the old town for dinner and a deep and meaningful chat over a lakeside beer. I felt like I could stay here forever – but my itinerary only allowed me to extend one extra night.
The following three days, I socialised to my heart’s content with travellers from all over the world, sharing stories about their experiences and swapping tips. This was by far my favourite place to stay during my Central Asia trip. I had come to notice that this region of the world attracted a certain type of traveller – the more seasoned, curious, adventurous type – and I was intrigued by this.
One of the great things about Bukhara is that it has several incredible options to choose from and at fantastic prices. I would recommend staying close to the historic town, which is beautiful to explore at various times of the day, but Yandex is always available to take you from A to B, no matter where you are staying.
With that in mind, here are some of the best options for all budgets:
- $ Dervish Hostel is where I stayed. The hostel features a huge courtyard with shaded seating, free chai all day, and a steady flow of travellers to talk to.
- $ Art Guest House USTO is a lovingly restored 19th-century family home just 2 minutes from Bukhara’s main sights. The walls are filled with the family’s own artwork, and there’s a photography library to browse.
- $$ AIST Hotel & Terrace – rooms open onto a massive courtyard with arched doorways, carved wooden columns and a canopy stretched overhead that keeps the place shaded. It’s a few steps from Nadir Divan-Beghi Madrasah.
- $$ Mukhlisabegim Hotel – a 7-room family guesthouse just off the tourist trail, built around a covered courtyard with tiled niches and a wall-sized mural of Lyabi-Hauz. Breakfast is served beneath it.
- $$$ DUSTON Boutique XIX-century rooms feature 13 large rooms around a courtyard, restored with painted motifs, wooden railings, and stained glass. It’s the best-rated stay in the city.
- $$$ Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel sits in the Jewish Quarter, near Lyabi-Hauz, in a merchant’s house built for one of Bukhara’s wealthiest families. Breakfast is served in the original 19th-century dining room.
Best things to do in Bukhara
At first, Bukhara can feel deceptively small, so much so that I had gone two days without realising I had missed a whole section of the town – that was until we visited during a walking tour. I remember arriving and thinking I had already seen most of it within a few hours, but I was very wrong.
The city is packed with ancient mosques, madrasas, caravanserais, and hidden courtyards that are easy to miss if you don’t know where to look. Many of the most interesting areas are tucked behind unassuming walls or spread across different parts of the old town, as well as down small, narrow alleyways you wouldn’t think to venture down.
One of the highlights is exploring the famous trading domes, which are still active today. These historic market buildings once formed part of the Silk Road trading network and are now filled with shops selling carpets, silk, ceramics, jewellery, and traditional crafts. Even if you’re not buying anything, wandering through them gives you a real sense of the city’s trading history.
Even when I wasn’t planning to buy anything, I couldn’t help myself when I saw the many handcrafted silk, cashmere and wool items available. It was in Bukhara that my backpack began to get heavier – which made my new hostel family laugh every time I returned from a “stroll around town”.
I also took a taxi out to a large local bazaar outside the tourist centre. This felt like a completely different side of Bukhara—far less polished, but far more authentic.
It was fascinating to see locals doing their daily shopping, and it was also the perfect place to pick up fresh fruit and snacks at local prices. I still remember sitting back at the hostel sharing a kilo of cherries with other travellers – which was a great conversation starter.
These are some of the best things to do in Bukhara:
1. Visit the Old Town
Bukhara Old Town is the heart of the city and feels like an open-air museum filled with mosques, madrasas, caravanserais, and narrow alleyways. The best way to experience it is simply by walking without a strict plan, letting yourself get lost among centuries-old architecture.
However, I would strongly recommend taking a free walking tour, which takes you around all the nooks and crannies, and you will learn the history along the way. This was a fantastic experience with yet another local guide from Bukhara.
The guide Makhbuba leans on legends and folklore, which suits you if you’d rather come away with stories than a complete monument checklist.
take the free tour with Makhbuba
2. Visit the trading domes
You cannot miss the trading domes – literally, because they are scattered around the town. These famous trading domes are one of Bukhara’s most unique features, originally built during the Silk Road era as covered marketplaces, and you’ll find carpets, silk scarves, jewellery, ceramics, and traditional crafts.
Each dome has its own speciality, and even if you’re not buying anything, wandering through them gives a real sense of the city’s trading history.
While in Bukhara, I picked up some silk embroidered cushion covers and some cashmere clothing, but I do have to say it was slightly more expensive than Tashkent or Samarkand – however, still very affordable and a lot of variety. For example, a silk embroidered cushion cover costs 12 euros each.
3. Chill & people watch at Lyabi-Hauz
Bukhara is one of the oldest cities in Uzbekistan, and Lyabi-Hauz is the social heart of it, and in my experience, one of the most atmospheric spots in Bukhara. Centred around a shaded pool surrounded by historic buildings, cafés, and restaurants, it’s the perfect place to rest after a day of exploring, something which I incorporated into my routine.
In the evenings, the area comes alive with locals and travellers gathering to eat, drink tea, and enjoy the cooler air. It quickly becomes a natural meeting point and one of the best places to soak up the city’s atmosphere. You can either relax lakeside if you want to enjoy a beer or food, but there are lots of benches and walls where you can sit and soak up the atmosphere as the locals do.
4. Visit the Ark of Bukhara
You will hear a lot about the Ark of Bukhara – a massive ancient fortress that once served as the residence of the Emirs of Bukhara, and it is well worth checking it out. It is about 10 minutes’ walk from the city centre, so the first time I visited was during the free walking tour.
Standing at the entrance feels impressive enough, but I have heard that exploring inside reveals museums, courtyards, and remnants of the original citadel, which I would love to do when I return to Uzbekistan. Despite being partially ruined, it remains one of the most important historical landmarks in the city, and I found it quite impressive to marvel at.
5. See the Kalyan Minaret and Mosque Complex
The stunning Poi Kalyan Complex is one of the most iconic sights in Bukhara, and this is where you will encounter most of the crowds – for a great reason. The complex is dominated by the towering Kalyan Minaret, which has stood for nearly a thousand years and is quite the photo opportunity.
The surrounding mosque and madrasa form a beautifully balanced architectural ensemble that feels both powerful and peaceful.
The minaret itself has a fascinating history and was once used as a navigation point for caravans crossing the desert, since it acted as a guiding reference point. It’s especially beautiful at sunrise and sunset when the light hits the brickwork; however, I visited during the heat of the day and would not recommend this.
6. Visit Chor Minor
Chor Minor is one of the most unusual buildings in Bukhara, instantly recognisable by its four turquoise-topped towers, which were just about the only feature that reminded me of the buildings I had seen in other Uzbek cities.
Tucked away in a quieter part of the old city, it feels more intimate and less crowded than other attractions. Despite its small size, it has a strong visual impact and is a favourite photo stop for travellers exploring Bukhara on foot.
It’s a quick visit but definitely worth including in your itinerary. This was a great point in our tour to sit down beneath a tree to soak up the view of this beautiful building while escaping the sun.
Want a local experience?
For a more authentic experience, head to one of Bukhara’s local markets outside the main tourist area, like Markaziy bozor. Here, you’ll see everyday life in action, with locals buying fresh fruit, vegetables, spices, and household goods.
It’s much less polished than the old town markets but far more atmospheric in a different way, so it is not the right place for shopping for local crafts, etc.
It is, however, a great place to pick up inexpensive snacks and fresh produce while experiencing a more local side of the city. The cherries were delicious!
Where to eat
One of my first meals in Bukhara was right by the central pond in the heart of the old town. It’s definitely a tourist spot, but it quickly became one of my favourite places to sit and unwind.
The food was incredibly affordable, which surprised me, given the central location and fantastic view. I paid around for a beer and for a large plate of Plov (the national dish).
After long days of walking in the heat, I often found myself returning to the same spot for a cold drink or a simple meal. It became a natural meeting point for travellers and locals alike, especially in the evening when the heat eased off, and the city felt more alive.
What I came to realise was that the seating area which surrounded the entire pond actually belonged to one restaurant, not multiple, which was quite impressive. But because of this, service can be quite slow at times.
Across Bukhara, there is a good mix of budget eateries, traditional Uzbek restaurants, and slightly more upscale dining options. Many serve classic dishes such as plov, shashlik, lagman, and manti, all of which are staples of Uzbek cuisine.
Some of my favourite eateries in Bukhara include:
Other great options include:
Best time to visit
Having visited Bukhara in mid-May, I would highly suggest visiting in the shoulder season when the heat is not as intense.
In my opinion, the best time to visit Bukhara is from April to early May and mid-September to October, when temperatures are much more comfortable for exploring the city’s historic old town on foot. During these months, you can still enjoy beautifully sunny days without the struggle of high temperatures.
Summer (June to August) can be especially intense in most of Uzbekistan, but especially in places like Bukhara or Khiva, which experience very high temperatures due to the desert-like climate. Walking between mosques, madrasas, and markets can quickly become exhausting in the midday heat, and shade is limited in many of the main sightseeing areas.
Winter, on the other hand, is much quieter and cooler, offering a more peaceful experience but with fewer tourists and colder evenings. I would recommend starting a trip in Bukhara or Khiva, and as the weather gets hotter, moving to places like Samarkand or Tashkent and beyond, since these are higher in elevation.
Overall, Bukhara is one of those destinations where timing really matters, so visiting in the right season can completely change how enjoyable it feels to explore. Planning is key! Something which I regrettably didn’t do much of.
Tips & advice
- This free walking tour is highly recommended to get your bearings. It helps you understand the layout of the old town and reveals hidden spots you might otherwise miss. It might be wise to do this at the beginning so you can revisit the places that stood out to you.
- Compare prices when shopping in the trading domes; they vary greatly.
- Visit Bukhara Silk Carpets and visit the back to see the woman making the rugs. It is incredible to see the detail and technique that go into it.
- Local food is always a similar price no matter where you go, but expect to pay much more for international dishes. I ate plov almost every day because I loved it and it was so affordable.
- Allow around 3 – 4 days to visit Bukhara. I had 3, and it was perfect, but I would have enjoyed an extra day there.
- The Silk & Spices Festival happens in May, and it took place during my visit. This was incredible to witness, where music played loudly, fireworks lit up the sky at night, and the culture of the city came alive.
- Plan your days around the heat. Mornings and evenings are ideal for strolling around and taking photos, while midday is the perfect time to enjoy indoor activities or local bazaars.
- Bozori Kord Bathhouse is a traditional Uzbek hamam in the old town, but having booked and then read the reviews, I decided not to go. As a woman, the atmosphere there was slightly creepy, and despite it being women-only after 9 pm, many men were lingering and hoping to catch a glimpse – something many reviewers had mentioned.
Where to next
From Bukhara, most travellers continue their Uzbekistan journey by train to either Samarkand or Khiva. Others head back to Tashkent, the capital and main international flight hub, especially if they are finishing their trip, but in my case, I took the overnight train to Tashkent for an onward flight to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan – and that was a very interesting experience.
Initially, I had planned to visit Khiva, but since it was further than I thought, and trains were unavailable, it did not work out.
However, if you have more time than I did, you should travel there, since it is a beautifully preserved desert city that feels like stepping back in time. I am sad to have missed it, but happy to have somewhere new to explore when I do return to Uzbekistan.
Editor’s note: If trains are unavailable and you don’t want to miss Khiva like Jade did, book this GetYourGuide Bukhara → Khiva transfer with stops at ancient desert fortresses and a scenic lake.